Monday, July 8, 2013

Tool and Die Makers : Nature of the Work

Tool and die makers are among the most highly skilled workers in manufacturing. These workers produce and repair tools, dies, and special guiding and holding devices that enable machines to produce a variety of products we use daily—from clothing and furniture to heavy equipment and parts for aircraft. They may work in manufacturing plants that produce tools in house, or in machine shops that only produce specialized machine tools for other manufacturers.

Toolmakers craft precision tools and machines that are used to cut, shape, and form metal and other materials. They also produce jigs and fixtures—devices that hold metal while it is bored, stamped, or drilled—and gauges and other measuring devices. Die makers construct metal forms, called dies, that are used to shape metal in stamping and forging operations. They also make metal molds for diecasting and for molding plastics, ceramics, and composite materials. Some tool and die makers craft prototypes of parts, and then, working with engineers and designers, determine how best to manufacture the part. In addition to developing, designing, and producing new tools and dies, these workers also may repair worn or damaged tools, dies, gauges, jigs, and fixtures.

To perform these functions, tool and die makers employ many types of machine tools and precision measuring instruments. They also must be familiar with the machining properties, such as hardness and heat tolerance of a wide variety of common metals, alloys, plastics, ceramics, and other composite materials. Tool and die makers are knowledgeable in machining operations, mathematics, and blueprint reading. In fact, tool and die makers often are considered highly specialized machinists. Machinists typically produce less elaborate parts for machinery, while tool and die makers craft very durable, complex machine tools. As a result, tool and die makers must have a general understanding of the mechanics of machinery. (See the section on machinists elsewhere in the Handbook.)

While many tools and dies are designed by engineers or tool designers, tool and die makers are also trained to design tools and often do. They may travel to a customer's plant to observe the operation and suggest ways in which a new tool could improve the manufacturing process.

Once a tool or die is designed, tool and die makers, working from blueprints, plan the sequence of operations necessary to manufacture the tool or die. They measure and mark the pieces of metal that will be cut to form parts of the final product. At this point, tool and die makers cut, drill, or bore the part as required, checking to ensure that the final product meets specifications. Finally, these workers assemble the parts and perform finishing jobs, such as filing, grinding, and polishing surfaces. While manual machining has declined, it is still used for unique parts and sharpening of used tools.

Many tool and die makers use computer-aided design (CAD) to develop products and parts. Specifications entered into computer programs can be used to electronically develop blueprints for the required tools and dies. Numerical tool and process control programmers use CAD or computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) programs to convert electronic drawings into CAM-based computer programs that contain instructions for a sequence of cutting tool operations. (See the section on computer control programmers and operators elsewhere in the Handbook.) Once these programs are developed, computer numerically controlled (CNC) machines follow the set of instructions contained in the program to produce the part. Computer-controlled machine tool operators or machinists normally operate CNC machines, but tool and die makers are often trained in both operating CNC machines and writing CNC programs; and they may perform either task. CNC programs are stored electronically for future use, saving time and increasing worker productivity.

After machining the parts, tool and die makers carefully check the accuracy of the parts using many tools, including coordinate measuring machines, which use sensor arms and software to compare the dimensions of the part to electronic blueprints. Next, they assemble the different parts into a functioning machine. They file, grind, shim, and adjust the different parts to properly fit them together. Finally, tool and die makers set up a test run, using the tools or dies they have made to make sure that the manufactured parts meet specifications. If problems occur, they compensate by adjusting the tools or dies.

Working Conditions

Tool and die makers may either work in toolrooms or manufacturing production floors. Toolrooms are generally kept clean and cool to minimize heat-related expansion of metal workpiece, while specialty machine shops have a factory floor covered with machinery. To minimize the exposure of workers to moving parts, machines have guards and shields. Most computer-controlled machines are totally enclosed, minimizing workers' exposure to noise, dust, and the lubricants used to cool workpieces during machining. Working around this machinery can still be dangerous, so tool and die makers must follow safety rules and wear protective equipment, such as safety glasses to shield against bits of flying metal, earplugs to protect against noise, and gloves and masks to reduce exposure to hazardous lubricants and cleaners. These workers also need stamina, because they often spend much of the day on their feet and may do moderately heavy lifting. Companies employing tool and die makers have traditionally operated only one shift per day. Overtime and weekend work are common, especially during peak production periods.

How to Dye Polyester

Dying a polyester garment can be a great way to put your personal touch on a piece of clothing. While polyester, along with other synthetic fibers, can be very difficult to dye properly, the process can be done successfully. By arming yourself with a few tools and a lot of know-how, you can learn how to dye polyester fabric.

Steps

  1. 1
    Purchase the appropriate type of dye. Polyester can't be dyed using the same kinds of dyes that work well with natural fibers such as cotton; using these types of dyes will result in little or no change to your garment's color. To dye polyester, you need to purchase what are called disperse dyes. Disperse dyes consist of a finely ground dying agent suspended in a dispersing agent, and they are sold as either paste or powder.
  2. 2
    Wash the garment to remove any oil or dirt. Wash your garment as you normally would in a washing machine in hot water. Please Make sure you don't use any fabric softeners or detergents with additives. Recommended best always is an detergent marked odor free. If you have an old style washer I highly recommend using Dawn original dish soap. However NEVER more then one teaspoon per yard of fabrics. WE don't want a rerun of Lucy! This step prepares the fabric for dying by removing any impurities. Do not Put the fabric or clothing in the dryer when you are finished this step.
  3. 3
    Put on your personal protective equipment. Before beginning the process, you need to put on rubber gloves, an apron, safety glasses, and a dust mask. The dust mask and safety glasses will prevent the finely ground dye powder from getting in your eyes, nose, and mouth, causing irritation. The gloves and apron will prevent the dye from discoloring your hands or clothing - if you stain your skin with disperse dye, it will be very difficult to remove.
  4. 4
    Prepare the dying bath. Fill a large steel or enameled stockpot with 2 gallons (7.5 L) of water. This amount of water will allow you to dye about 1 pound (453 g) of polyester fabric. Do not use an aluminum stockpot, as the metal will react with the dye. Bring the water to a boil.
  5. 5
    Dissolve the dye powder. Add the desired amount of dye to a small cup of hot water. To achieve a pale color, 1 tsp. (5 ml) of dye should suffice, while 3 tsp. (15 ml) can be added for a darker result. Stir the dye thoroughly to dissolve with a wooden or steel utensil - do not use aluminum, and do not use a utensil that you plan to use later for food preparation. If the dye won't dissolve completely, strain the resulting slurry through cheesecloth before using. You can remove mask at this point. As long as the dry powder is dissolved it is now safe to breath.
  6. 6
    Add the dye mixture to the boiling water bath, along with some laundry detergent. Adding about 1/2 tsp. (2.5 ml) of detergent to the dying bath will help the polyester accept the dye. Stir the bath to distribute the dye and detergent.
  7. 7
    Place the polyester garment into the boiling water bath. Allow to garment to boil for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally with a steel or wooden spoon. If the garment has not reached the desired color after 30 minutes, boil it for any additional time needed.
  8. 8
    Remove the garment from the bath when it has reached the desired color. Rinse it in warm water until the water runs clear, while being careful not to let the dye water stain your sink. When the garment has been thoroughly rinsed, wash it alone in a washing machine before wearing.

How to Bend Pipe

You can bend pipe and tubing in one of several methods, depending on what you plan to use the bent pipe or tube for. The problem in bending pipe is figuring out where and how much to bend the pipe. While many bending tools come with a set of instructions for figuring out such things as bend allowances and bend deductions, they are often written in a complex manner and assume a knowledge of mathematics that intimidates many users. While it's not possible to completely eliminate the math, it is possible to plan how to bend a piece of pipe in such a way that figuring the bending angle is simplified and so that the only math needed is simple arithmetic. The method described below is not simple, but with practice, you can master it.

Steps

Selecting a Bending Tool

  1. 1
    Choose the right bending tools for your needs. There are 6 main bending methods. Each is best suited to a particular type of pipe.
    • Ram style bending, also called incremental bending, is usually used for putting large bends in light-gauge metal, such as electrical conduit. In this method, the pipe is held down at 2 external points and the ram pushes on the pipe at its central axis to bend it. Bends tend to deform into an oval shape at both the inside and outside of the bend.
    • Rotary draw bending is used to bend pipe for use as handrails or ornamental iron, as well as car chassis, roll cages, and trailer frames, as well as heavier conduit. Rotary draw bending uses 2 dies: a stationary counter-bending die and a fixed radius die to form the bend. It is used when the pipe needs to have a good finish and constant diameter throughout its length.
    • Mandrel bending is used to make stock and custom exhaust pipes, dairy tubing, and heat exchanger tubing. In addition to the dies used in rotary draw bending, mandrel bending uses a flexible support that bends with the pipe or tubing to make sure the pipe interior isn't deformed.
    • Induction bending heats the area to be bent with an electric coil, and then the pipe or tube is bent with dies similar to those used in rotary draw bending. The metal is immediately cooled with water to temper it. It produces tighter bends than straight rotary draw bending.
    • Roll bending, also called cold bending, is used whenever large bends are necessary in the pipe or tubing, such as in awning supports, barbecue grill frames, or drum rolls, as well as in most construction work. Roll benders use 3 rolls on individual shafts to roll the pipe through as the top roller pushes down to bend the pipe. (Because the rolls are arranged in a triangle, this method is sometimes called pyramid bending.)
    • Hot bending, in contrast, is used considerably in repair work. The metal is heated at the place where it is to be bent to soften it.

Making a Right Angle Bend

  1. 1
    Bend a test pipe at a 90-degree angle. Not only will this familiarize you with how much force you need to apply to operate your bender, but this pipe will serve as a reference for future bends.
    • To check the angle of your pipe, lay it against a carpenter's square with the outer bend facing the corner of the square. Both ends of the pipe should just touch the square's sides and run parallel to them.
  2. 2
    Find the place where the bend in the pipe starts. You should see or feel a small flat spot or distortion at the place where the bend starts and where it ends.
  3. 3
    Mark the ends of the bend with a permanent marker. Draw the line completely around the pipe.
  4. 4
    Lay the pipe against the square again to find the length of the pipe in the bend. Note the place on each side of the square where the pipe's markings touch. These should be the same distance from the inside corner of the square. Add these lengths together.
    • If the markings on each end of the pipe bend touch the square at 6 inches (15 cm) from the inside corner of the square, the total length of the bent section of the pipe is 12 inches (30 cm).
  5. 5
    Find the place on your bending die where the bend begins. Place the bent tube back in your bender with the die used to bend it and note where on the die the mark on the pipe lines up. Mark this place with a dot of paint or by notching the metal with a file.
    • If you have more than one die (for different diameters of pipe), make a test bend for each die, as each diameter will require a different amount of metal to make a 90-degree bend.
    • Once you know how much pipe is needed to form the bend, you can calculate how long a piece of pipe you need by adding this figure (called the bend deduction) to the vertical and horizontal lengths of the pipe.

Making Multiple Bends

  1. 1
    Measure out the space your bent pipe will occupy. If you're making a roll bar for a dune buggy that will occupy a space 60 inches (150 cm) wide by 50 inches (125 cm) high, make a rectangle with these dimensions on a clean space of concrete floor with a piece of chalk.
  2. 2
    Divide the rectangle with a centerline. The centerline should bisect the longer (width) sides of the rectangle.
  3. 3
    Measure in from the top corners of the rectangle to where the horizontal portion of the bent pipe begins. If the top of the roll bar should run only 40 inches (100 cm), subtract this length from the width for the bottom, then measure half the distance in from each of the upper corners. This works out to a difference of 20 inches (50 cm), half of which is 10 inches (25 cm), which is the distance to measure in. Mark this distance in from each of the top corners.
  4. 4
    Measure from the bottom corners to where the lower bend begins. If the distance from the bottom of the roll bar to the first bend is to be 40 inches (100 cm), measure and mark this distance up from each side of the bottom corners.
  5. 5
    Connect the markings where the bends will be made, using a straightedge or ruler. You can measure the connecting lines with a ruler.
    • In this example, the diagonal line connecting the marks on the horizontal and vertical lines is about 14 inches (70 cm) long.
  6. 6
    Lay your 90-degree bend pipe inside the top line of your frame. Lay it so that the horizontal straight end touches the inside of the upper horizontal line.
  7. 7
    Slide the pipe until it touches the diagonal you drew.
  8. 8
    Mark the place where the bend mark intersects the frame line.
  9. 9
    Rotate the pipe so the other bend mark intersects the diagonal. Mark this place on the diagonal.
  10. 10
    Repeat the last 4 steps for the other upper corner.
  11. 11
    Calculate the total length of pipe needed. Add together the measurements from the bottom corners to the first marks, the lengths of pipe between the lower bend, and the length between the upper bend.
    • In the above example, the vertical portions of the roll bar will each be 40 inches (100 cm) long, the diagonal portions will each be 14 inches (70 cm) long, and the horizontal portion will be 40 inches long. The total minimum length of pipe will be 40 + 14 + 40 + 14 + 40 inches (100 + 70 + 100 + 70 + 100 cm), or 144 inches (440 cm) long.
  12. 12
    Cut the pipe. Although the minimum length of pipe needed is 144 inches, it's a good idea to allow for error, add at least 4 inches (10 cm), making the total length 148 inches (450 cm).
  13. 13
    Find and mark the center of the pipe. You'll work from this point outward.
  14. 14
    Lay the pipe against the top line of your layout frame, aligning the pipe's center with the center line. Mark on the pipe where the upper bends are to start and finish using the marks on the frame.
    • You may also want to mark the direction of your bends by putting arrows on the pipe pointing outward.
  15. 15
    Make each of the upper bends with your bending tool. Be sure the pipe's seam is to the inside when you bend; this prevents twisting or kinking during the bending process.
    • To ensure your bender is set to the correct angle, you can prepare a reference tool of 2 flat pieces of metal whose ends are attached to a pivot. Bend this tool to the angle indicated on your frame, and then match the bending angle of your bending tool to this angle.
    • After making each bend, lay the pipe against your frame to check that the angle of the bend is correct.
  16. 16
    Make each of the lower bends with your bending tool. Follow the same procedures as outlined in the previous step.
  17. 17
    Cut off any excess from the ends of the bent pipe.

How to Become a Tool and Die Maker

Tool and die makers are at the top of the ladder in the metalworking trades. They are very versatile in using their hands for creating parts as well as machines to produce high precision parts. Their abilities go beyond that of the typical machinist. They are capable of designing and fabricating tools with no supervision. With these skills, tool and die makers are a tremendous asset in any manufacturing facility.

Steps

  1. 1
    Understand the unit circle and how the sine and cosine work.
     Understand the unit circle and how the sine and cosine work.
    Master basic math. Understand addition, subtraction, and division. A little shop trigonometry is good for calculating bolt circles and finding the length of triangles. Some basic algebra can also be handy for applying handbook formulas.
  2. 2
    CAD, or computer-aided drafting.
     CAD, or computer-aided drafting.
    Learn computer drafting. Suitable skills are included in vocational and technical schools' machining programs. Learn to create and interpret mechanical drawings.
  3. 3
    A conventional lathe.
     A conventional lathe.
    Enter an apprenticeship program at a tool and die shop while in high school if possible. As an apprentice, you will do simple tasks like drilling, deburring, and sweeping in the beginning. The tasks will become more challenging as time goes on. You will learn the lathe, mill and surface grinder. Apprenticeships typically last 2 to 4 years.
  4. 4
    A CNC milling machine.
     A CNC milling machine.
    Study machine tool technology at a good vocational trade school. Programs vary from school to school. Make sure you are studying at one that has various machines to learn from. A wire EDM (electrostatic discharge machining) tool would be nice. Also, make sure they have good CNC (computer numerically controlled) programming courses. Try to get hands-on experience in a shop rather than studying only in a classroom. The heart of your education will be in the types of projects you will be making in the course. A typical machine tool technology program will last two years.
  5. 5
    Get a copy of the Machinery Handbook and refer to it often. This is an excellent reference for answering any machining problem.
  6. 6
    A thread micrometer.
     A thread micrometer.
    Buy a set of good high quality precision tools like 1-2-3 inch micrometers, and a square set, along with a 7- or 11-drawer machinists toolbox. An electronic caliper is a plus also.
    • Try to stay away from generic tools because these seem to be less durable. Instead, invest in high quality tools like Starrett and Mitutoyo, top names in the trade.
    • If money is tight, obtain tools gradually, as you need them, over time, until you have your own set. Get the ones you need most first.
  7. 7
    Once you land a job, focus on gaining experience. Learn from veteran tool and die makers. They can and often do share many tips they have learned over the years.
  8. 8
    Talk with other tool and die makers on the internet in various discussion forums especially concerning CNC programming.
  9. 9
    Read metalworking trade publications in your spare time.
  10. 10
    If you want to further your career in the tool and die trade, you may want to move into supervision or teaching.
     If you want to further your career in the tool and die trade, you may want to move into supervision or teaching.
    If you want to further your career in the tool and die trade, you may want to move into supervision or teaching. A Bachelor's degree in almost any field along with tool and die experience would be very beneficial in obtaining a supervisor's job in manufacturing and/or teaching.